By Peter Mulvey
I’ve been a touring songwriter for 25 years, playing shows from Anchorage to Amsterdam, from Seattle to Boston. It’s a truly lovely life, and the endless flow of airports and rental car counters is a small price to pay for the privilege of getting to share night after night of music with my far flung, loyal audience.
I’m also an avid cyclist; I ride a recumbent around my native Milwaukee, and I often travel with a Brompton so that I can ride the Golden Gate Bridge or the Silver Comet Trail when I’m on the road.
One of my favorite venues, the Cafe Carpe in Fort Atkinson, Wisconsin, is only 56 miles from my house, and much of what lies between is the achingly pretty Glacial Drumlin Rail Trail. For years, an innocuous thought rattled around the back of my head: “If I could find a way to bring my guitar, I could commute to a gig at the Carpe by bike!”
Eventually, this innocent thought collided with a second thought: “Then I’d only be 38 miles from Madison. Why… I could do a little tour!”
I bought a BOB trailer, packed far too much in the way of clothing and CDs to sell, and hurled myself into the task. That first September, in 2007, I did a 350 mile loop that included venues in the Wisconsin towns of Fort Atkinson, Madison, Green Lake, Oshkosh, Cedarburg, and Milwaukee. I got sunburned, rained on, exhausted… and hooked.
The next year I streamlined down to a recumbent with no trailer, and repeated a similar loop. In 2009 I and a small band of fellow cyclists (including the opening act, Minneapolis songwriter Brianna Lane, who has since become the permanent opener on these tours) took the ferry from Milwaukee to Muskegon, Michigan, and then biked from there through Michigan, Ontario, upstate New York, Vermont, and New Hampshire, playing gigs along the way to a final show in Boston. 1100 miles. A life-changing trip.
This year will be the tenth annual bicycle tour, a run from Milwaukee to Minneapolis. Of course the exercise is welcome, and of course the back roads and the scenery and the hills and the guiltless stops for ice cream are all worth the price of admission… but I was truly startled to find such a vivid expansion of my life. There is a bond that is only accessible to humans when we are traveling over land, under our own power, getting rained on together, getting hungry together, facing hills together. I noticed us all (there are usually between four and seven people on these tours) bonding in a way that felt, and of course truly is, millennia deep. We had become the tribe.
Granted, there are no elk or mastodons, but rather gas stations with Gatorade. And there are no tigers, but rather motorists. Still, once the tribe is safely to the shelter of the next cave (or, in this case, the trailside B&B) and telling stories of the day’s adventures, there is nothing quite like the feeling of having done what we were, in a true sense, built to do.
Bicycling has changed many lives; what strikes me is how many different ways we keep finding for it to change us.Tweet Print
By Jeffrey Stern
Saying goodbye to a loved one might be the most difficult thing in the world. As a parent, losing your child is that much more difficult. Most parents would easily say they’d rather give their own life than watch their child pass away.
One father turned his deep pain into hope for thousands of people and their family’s around the country hoping for an organ transplant to save their lives.
Bill Conner’s daughter, Abigail Conner, lost her life in an unexpected accident last January while vacationing in Cancun, Mexico with her brother. The junior at the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater, was only 20-years old at the time of her death in a swimming pool. Since she was a registered organ donor, her tissues and organs were saved and given to four men all between the ages of 20-60 looking at death themselves.
In a touching moment, Bill got to listen to Abigail’s heart beat in the man’s chest who’s life she saved in her passing. Instead of flying from Madison, Wisconsin to Ventress, Louisiana, Conner opted to take a long journey, giving him time to think on his way to this special meeting. Starting on May 22nd, Conner road 60 miles per day to make it to the recipient’s home in time for this once in a lifetime occasion.
On Father’s Day, Conner made it to Louisiana to meet Loumonth Jack, Jr., the recipient of his daughter’s heart, nearly six months after the transplant.
“This is what she would want me to do,” Conner said to CBS News.
In an emotional video captured by Donate Life Louisiana and posted to their Facebook page, Conner is shown embracing Jack and then using a stethoscope to listen to the beat of his daughter’s heart for the first time since her passing. Both men began to cry, surrounded by Jack’s family and news reporters. Jack, only 21-years old, suffered a heart attack that would have taken his own life in January if it was not for Abbey’s heart donation.
“She saved me and I can’t repay her. I wish I could, but I can’t,” Jack said to WAFB of Baton Rouge. “All I can do is send my love to her family.”
Conner’s journey isn’t stopping in Louisiana though, his plans are to ride his bike another 1,200 miles all the way to Ft. Lauderdale, Florida by July 10th. “In honor of my daughter and to help me deal with my own grief, I will be riding my bicycle 2,000+ miles across the country,” Conner wrote on the GoFundMe page he created for his daughter, titled Abbey’s Ride for Life.
“Knowing he’s alive because of Abbey, Abbey is alive inside of him – it’s her heart having him stand up straight,” Conner said. “I was happy for him and his family, and at the same time, I got to reunite with my daughter,” he told CBS. Something many family members never get a chance to do, especially if their loved ones aren’t registered organ donors at the time of their passing.
His ultimate goal is to raise awareness for the impact of organ donation for both the recipients and donors. Although because of unfortunate circumstances out of both of their control, Jack and Conner will have an unbreakable, lifelong bond. One person’s life was taken while another’s was saved, ultimately a better situation than the death of two young adults.
As of June 29th, nearly $21,000 of Conner’s $30,000 goal has been raised for Donate Life America.Tweet Print
Words by Frank Hyman.
This story was originally published in Bicycle Times #25, October 2013.
My summer of hiking, biking and inflatable kayaking began with an embarrassing stumble. I planned to celebrate my fortieth birthday by spending four weeks hopscotching the islands of southeast Alaska. My boxed up bike had arrived intact with me at the tiny Juneau airport. The rainbow-colored Specialized mountain bike was all put together except for the rear derailleur cable. No amount of tugging could get it back into place. I’m kneeling in the airport with my bike upside down on the carpet and scores of travelers, in their Carhartt jeans or long skirts and leather boots, are moving quickly past me while I sit stymied. I’m not a wrencher. But before my trip I had met a guy who was. I brought my bike and a couple of six-packs to his backyard shop for some tutoring. I figured bike shops might be few and far between in what the locals call Baja Alaska. My new friend Tom helped me take my bike apart and put it back together again. We added a rear rack, a handlebar rack and fenders against the likely wet weather. Thinking back, by the time we were putting cables back into place, I’d had too many beers. A month later, I figured out how to pack my bike without disconnecting that cable. Whaddaya know? There’s not much of a road network in Baja Alaska so you couldn’t bike more than five or ten miles even if you wanted to. I was counting on getting from island to island on a state ferry with a little village of tents duct-taped to the aft deck. I made great plans to use my bike as a pack mule to cover the few miles from airports and ferry docks to hostels and campgrounds. My bike would carry me swiftly and scenically to trailheads, put-ins, restaurants and museums. With my inflatable kayak in a duffle bag strapped over the back panniers and a two-part paddle sticking up like smokestacks, I was only a short distance from any put-in. I could explore coves, harbors and icebergs. The planning and packing were almost as fun as the traveling. Baja Alaska is wetter than Baja, Mexico—the locals have thirty words for “drizzle”—so I bought a full set of rain gear. And I made up a recipe for a lightweight camping meal that was filling and delicious: quick grits, a bouillon cube and Parmesan cheese. I didn’t know it at the time, but there was a cathedral-sized tunnel through Mendenhall Glacier waiting for me to explore its blue, icy-smooth interior. But for now, I couldn’t even get myself out of the airport. “Want help with that?” says a fellow with a beard and business suit as he crouches down with the bike between us. “Got it all together but the cable,” I say. The stranger reaches for the bike with both hands and, like a harp player, strikes a happy note as the cable pops into place. I’m speechless, but my face shows equal parts gratitude and wonder. “Lots of late nights putting bikes together before Christmas,” he says with a smile and a wink as he walks away. Thank. You. Santa.
Words: Suzette Ayotte
Photos: Maurice Tierney
When we coasted into the first winery less than two miles from the start, I knew we were in for a long day. It wasn’t even 9:30 a.m. when we were presented with our first tasting at Fields Family Winery in Lodi, California. Ah, hell, I thought; it’s noon-thirty, somewhere.
“The thing is, I just wish they’d give you the equivalent of a full pour so that I could really taste the wine,” said Maurice (aka Mo) Tierney, publisher of Bicycle Times. “All these little sips just don’t seem like they add up. And I can’t discern the flavors. I mean, if someone tells me what flavors I should be tasting, then I can taste it.”
“Yes, wine tasting is a skill and you have to learn the vocabulary to go along with it,” I replied. “Then you have to be willing to talk about it for hours on end.”
“I’ve already got too much going on up here,” Mo said, making a circle around his head. “I don’t have any more room.”
Underneath, I knew Mo could jam more in there, but you either want to learn how to talk about wine or you don’t. The same holds true for bourbon or beer. Some people just want to drink and enjoy the fruits of that labor organically; I think both Mo and I are those people.
That was why, when Mo asked if I wanted to join him on the Giro d’Vino in early November, the answer was a definitive “yes.” I knew from other bike adventures with Mo that when you show up to ride with him, you always feel like you’re exactly where you are supposed to be at that moment and that nothing else matters.
Of course, the second reason why I quickly said yes was the wine. It had been a while since I’d done any wine tasting and it’s always a good time no matter where you are doing it. But … Lodi? Lodi is a town of about 65,000 people located 35 miles south of Sacramento.
But Lodi is where we found ourselves at 9:30 a.m. Neither one of us had looked at the map handed to us just as we left the Woodbridge Winery parking lot a mile and half back. We’d been more focused on the 100-percent probability of rain and whether or not we’d brought enough cold weather gear than the route.
We knew we’d be riding 48 miles—not too strenuous for either of us—and we knew we’d be drinking lots of wine. Those were the givens.
When we rolled into St. Jorge’s winery just five miles later, we were already wearing full grins. Sure, I am laced with Irish blood, but at 112 pounds and my breakfast of rice cakes and banana long ago digested, the red stuff was going straight to my head.
Thankfully, at that time, we learned to leverage the tricks of our trade.
“I’ve got an idea, pour a little more red into that glass so that I can take a photo,” Mo suggested to our host. “I’m the photographer; she’s the writer.”
“Okay,” our host acquiesced.
“Hey, good trick, Mo,” I said as we stepped away with a full glass of red. I inquired about the next stop and Mo discovered it was at Oak Farm—mile 9.5.
“Wait, what? That’s only three miles from here,” I said. We had started riding an hour ago and hadn’t even covered eight miles of pavement.
As we arrived at Oak Farm Vineyards’ tasting room thirty minutes, an extended photo session and one missed turn later, it was starting to sprinkle. “No problem,” Mo said as the rain quickened its pace, “we can hang out here for a bit.”
I took a look at the map as we settled into a 6-glass flight and began counting: one, two, three, four … 13, 14, 15. Fifteen?
“Mo, did you know we’re stopping at fifteen wineries today?” I asked, looking past Mo’s shoulder at the downpour.
“Well, in that case, we’d better get moving,” he said. “There’s a snack stop coming up.”
We pulled into Jessie’s Grove at mile 14.5 and almost three full hours into the 48-mile tour. We were only on our fourth winery and trailing the pack. Mo and I were probably two of the most experienced cyclists on the tour and we were literally dead fucking last. Things were looking ripe for a “did not finish” award.
But we were fast unearthing the Lodi charm. Indeed, it is a world away from Napa. It wasn’t that the wine was better or worse or that the tasting fees (we were told) are bargain-basement cheap compared to Napa. It was, instead, the cast of characters we were meeting along the way.
Jessie’s Grove was like walking onto the set of a John Waters film lacking only Divine and a few pink flamingos. At Ripkin we met Maxine, the 80-pound sow who still had some 18 years of growing to do. And at Michael David, we walked into a festive holiday party vibe where all were welcomed. We heard stories best reserved for behind closed doors and we tasted the salt of the earth. This wine tour was gritty—just like all of Mo’s improvised adventures.
By the time we reached stop number eight for what the map indicated was lunch, the day had darkened further with heavy rain. Things were going south; somehow I’d forgotten to clip out of my pedals as we were pulling in for yet another tasting and literally fell off the bike. But I wasn’t alone. Inside D’Art Wines I met a woman who seemed to be having the same issues. “I’m so embarrassed,” she whispered, “I just fell over, straight off my bike.”
We made it to one last stop for yet another tasting, a hot cup of soup and some live music. By that point, Mo was ready to join the band and I was ready to take a turn on the dance floor. Our only concern was darkness. We’d covered only 30 miles in eight hours: probably a personal slow-mo record for each of us.
A quick map consultation offered a direct route to the start/finish, shortening the final stretch from 18 to eight miles and allowing us to make it back just as the last of the event equipment was being packed in.
In all, we tasted grapes from nine of the 15 wineries on the tour in almost as many hours and were chilled only halfway to the bone. Our only regret was wondering what we’d missed.
The Giro d’Vino is production of the Delta Velo Racing Team and supports local community cycling programs.