By Justin Steiner
Specialized classifies the Crosstrail series of bikes within the “fitness adventure” category, which is an apt description given their aptitude on mixed surfaces. My Crosstrail Sport Disc retails for $830, making it the second least expense disc brake equipped model in the lineup. Only the base Crosstrail Disc is cheaper at $630.
Because I’ve been spoiled by testing dozens of fancy, high-dollar bikes over the years, I have to admit to not being terribly excited about testing this bike. Sure it seemed practical and economical, but there wasn’t much on the spec sheet to excite me. But, that was just me being jaded and spoiled. In reality, the Crosstrail has proven itself a fun and reliable partner over the last two months. More than making up for its lack of sex appeal through an oversized helping of practicality.
I greatly appreciate the Crosstrail’s ability to cruise back and forth to work on pavement while also tackling dirt trails, even light-duty singletrack, without breaking a sweat. The SR Suntour NEXi fork utilizes 60mm of travel to take the edge off of curb hopping and the Specialized Trigger 700x38mm semi-slick tires provide surprising grip offroad, even in snow, while rolling respectably quick on the road. With geometry and that’s on par with many 29-inch-wheeled mountain bikes these days, the Crosstrail’s off-pavement prowess is no surprise. That said, folks looking for a true mountain bike would be better off with Specialized’s Rockhopper 29.
The Crosstrail is versatile too, with rear rack and fender mounts as well as fender mounts on the fork. As you can see, I slapped fenders and rear rack on the Crosstrail and haven’t looked back.
To remain visible this time of year, I’ve been using a Lezyne Mega Drive headlight (look for a review in a future issue of the magazine) and a NiteRider Solas taillight. Both are USB rechargeable, which make be feel OK about utilizing them as daytime running lights.
Overall, the parts spec on this Sport disc model is quite good considering the price point, with nice touches like a quality, house-brand two-bolt seatpost that makes saddle adjustments a breeze. The front and rear Tektro Draco hydraulic disc brakes have performed flawlessly despite temps dipping into the middle-teens and are a welcome addition in sloppy winter weather.
For the ladies in the crowd, Specialized also offers the female-specific version of the Crosstrail called the Ariel. This lineup offers frame, fork, and components designed specifically for women. I give Specialized kudos for not skimping on the women’s-specific products; they offer seven models each for men and women at a range of price points from just shy of $2,000 to $580. Though there’s one potential downside for female customers looking for a blingy parts spec; the high-end Ariel tops out at $1,200.
Thus far, I’m highly satisfied with my Crosstail experience. You’ll have to check out the full review in Issue #22 for the final word. Subscribe by the end of February to have issue #22 delivered straight to your door.
Schwinn has been designing and building bicycles since 1895. Being pioneers and innovators throughout the company’s history, Schwinn continues to innovate with its environmentally-friendly flax-fiber bike, the Vestige.
The Vestige frame is made with 90 percent flax fiber and 10 percent carbon. Flax fiber is a biodegradable material derived from the same plant that linen is made from. The paint used on the Vestige is water based, which is environmentally friendly, and the fenders and grips are made from bamboo. Schwinn says the flax material has performance characteristics similar to carbon fiber, but with a much lower carbon footprint in the manufacturing process.
The Vestige is designed for commuters and casual cyclists with rear rack mounts for some mild utility riding. I’ve used the bike for cruising around town and have done a few lightweight grocery jaunts. The 1×9 drivetrain is plenty for most occasions and the full fenders and chain guard have kept water and grit off me.
On the front wheel is a Shimano Dynamo hub that powers an LED light system. The flax frame is translucent so the top and down tube of the frame let off a spectral glow when riding. While not bright enough to act as a stand-alone light, the concept is novel and elicits double takes as you make your way about town.
We’re pushing on through the winter aboard the Vestige, so look for full review in an upcoming issue of Bicycle Times. Subscribe now and never miss an issue.Tweet
By Shannon Mominee
The CrossRip Elite ($1,270) is part of Trek’s Urban Utility line. It’s made from their 100 series Alpha Aluminum and includes a paint matched Bontrager Satellite carbon fork. Frame sizing runs large or at least long. The size 56cm has a 58.4cm top tube. So, I swapped out the 100mm stem for a 80mm one to achieve my desired reach to the shift/brake hoods.
The frame and fork both have mounts for full coverage fenders. The fenders pictured are not included with the bike, but I added them for my commuting needs. With the fenders the bike accommodates a 35mm wide tire, and 29×1.8” tire without fenders.
There are also front and rear rack mounting points, internal derailleur cable routing, and mechanical disc brakes. Those small details amount to many options for all weather commuting, light-duty touring, or even a cyclocross outing if desired but the main triangle is a little tight for shouldering. Along with the Shimano 9-speed drivetrain and FSA Vero compact crankset, there’s not much paved or hard packed terrain that the CrossRip Elite can’t handle.
A nice feature I was glad to see that the CrossRip Elite is spec’d with a traditional bend drop bar, instead of an ergonomic bend that I have never found to be comfortable. Shimano’s Sora STI shifters create a nice and flat hand area and feel comfortable on my hands. They have a smooth action when shifting or pulling the brake lever. The Sora front derailleur on the other hand is finicky and rubs against the chain when I’m in the smallest or largest cog.
I like that Trek chose a 160mm rotor for the front wheel and a 140mm for the rear wheel to accommodate the Hayes CX5 mechanical disc brakes, which do a good job of slowing the bike down when the wheels are wet. The mechanicals are a huge improvement over the caliper brakes on my personal commuting bike.
It’s taken me a few rides to get comfortable on the CrossRip Elite, mostly due to the long stem and drop from the saddle to the bars. I like to be more upright when commuting and riding in traffic, and the stock set up just didn’t offer that to me. The Bontrager Evoke 1 saddle also seems to lose comfort and support after about seven miles and becomes a real pain in the ass. In any case, I’m set now.
Trek also offers a slightly less expensive, standard CrossRip for $1,100. It’s the same frame and fork with a different build kit. Look for a full review in an upcoming issue of Bicycle Times Magazine.
See more at www.trekbikes.com.Tweet
By Karl Rosengarth
Raleigh told me that the Misceo Trail 2.0 is a city bike that can take a beating, and handle some light hard-pack trail use. Sweet! That sounds like a bike that fits my riding style. Let’s take a closer look at the $800 Misceo Trail 2.0 and find out what this versatile machine has to offer.
The Misceo Trail 2.0 rolls on 700c wheels. That’s the logical choice, for a fast-rolling city bike. Kenda’s Happy Medium 700cx38c tires have a center section that’s patterned with minimalist knobs. More-aggressive lugs line the outer edges (for cornering grip in loose conditions). The tires roll quietly, and I’ve been impressed with their traction on dirt. On a $800 bike you don’t get a fancy wheelset (Weinmann XM260 Disc rims laced to Joytech disc hubs). But the proof is in the pedaling, so I’ll reserve judgment until I see how the wheels hold up to longer-term testing.
Flat bars offer a comfortable riding position, and they’re the ticket when venturing off-road. The head-ups posture also makes it easier to scan the surroundings (i.e. traffic). My personal city/road bikes are set up with flat bars. That’s how I roll.
I like the concept of a suspension fork on rugged city bike. For a number of reasons: potholes, bridge expansion joints, curb drops, railroad ballast, gravel roads, rumble strips, and singletrack shortcuts. Offering 63mm of coil-sprung travel and a lockout lever, the SR Suntour NCX fork is not a high-performance mountain bike suspension. It doesn’t have to be. It just has to soak up the aforementioned irregularities. And so far it has been working just fine.
Beyond the suspension fork, the oversized fame tubing is another clue that this bad boy is ready to rumble. I couldn’t resist heading for some rocky/bumpy terrain to get a feel for the bike under strain. The aluminum alloy frame felt reassuringly solid and up to the task. More off-road testing is definitely in order.
Disc brakes are de rigueur for bikes of this ilk. For that, I am happy. The Shimano 416 mechanical calipers and 160mm rotors offer impressive of stopping power with good modulation, wet or dry. I’m about three weeks into this test and the brakes only squealed once (in wet conditions, and very briefly at that.)
The Shimano Alivio 3×9 drivetrain (with Deore rear derailleur) offers plenty of gearing range, which is quite welcome in my hilly hometown. The Wellgo M21 pedals, with their aluminum alloy body/cage, are keepers. The rear dropout has an eyelet for rack/fender mounting.
Keep an eye out in a future issue of Bicycle Times for my long-term review. Subscribe today!Tweet
By Adam Newman
Kona’s advertising describes its new adventure/commuting/touring bike, the Rove, as “For the Never-Ending Road”, which is funny, because where I’ve been going, we don’t need roads.
The Rove ($1,699) is something of a mix of various Kona models: the fit and feel of the Jake the Snake cyclocross bike, eyelets and disc brakes from the Sutra touring bike, and the monstercross sensibility of the (now discontinued) Dew Drop. The Rove is designed for someone who does a little bit of everything: commuting, touring, even cyclocross racing.
The frame itself is no nonsense, butted chromoly mated to Kona’s venerable Project 2 steel fork. Kona has a reputation for building tough bikes that are designed to last, and I have no doubt the Rove will still be rolling after the Apocolypse. I’m guessing the tubing is sourced from one of Kona’s mountain bike models because it is as stiff (and as hefty) as any steel mountain bike I’ve ridden.
Highlights on the frame include full-length brake housings (for the inevitable availability of hydraulic brakes and protection from the elements), a full compliment of fender and rack mounts—including low-rider mounts on the fork, and an inset “Campy-style” headset. There is clearance for 35c tires and fenders, though please excuse the odd front fender setup pictured here, as I couldn’t get the stays on my old fenders to play nice with the disc brake caliper and resorted to some creative mounting. Also note the saddle pictured here is not the stock item, but a Syncros piece for a future review.
Propulsion on the Rove is handled by SRAM’s Apex group, which is not an ergonomic favorite of mine, but has performed flawlessesly. The 36/46 chainrings paired with an 11-32 cassette gives plenty of range for all but the most heavily loaded tours.
Though they’re anything but revolutionary, the disc brakes are So Totally Hot Right Now, and once the pads in the Hayes CX5 calipers bedded in a little the stopping power has been adequate, but not exemplary. I know many people are scared to spec a rotor larger than 140mm on a “road” bike, but I would have appreciated the extra stopping power. The location of the caliper inside the rear triangle on the chainstay makes installing fenders and racks on the rear a breeze.
I’m looking forward to some more big adventures this spring with the Rove and I know she’ll be up to anything I can throw at her. Look for my long-term review in an upcoming issue of Bicycle Times, and be sure to subscribe today to make sure you never miss an issue.
By Karen Brooks
I hadn’t been familiar with the Viva brand until a representative contacted us. The company was started in Copenhagen by a former member of the Danish national cycling team. From the look of the bikes, one could definitely guess the Copenhagen connection, if not the racing pedigree.
Viva is also the name of the younger one of my dogs. She approves.
Most of Viva’s bikes are in the style of a Dutch (or Danish) city bike. I chose the Kilo model, which instead of the typical 700c wheels, has 26-inch wheels with big Schwalbe Fat Frank tires, good for our local potholes. I dearly wished for the white, step-through frame for maximum style points, but alas, not all the options shown on the website are available in the U.S. The basic black allows my domestic partner to ride it without looking too girly, at least once he takes off the flowery Basil saddlebags I like to use.
This is a bike that lends itself to casual cruising, so I’ve installed the handlebar mount for a Soundmatters speaker I’m also testing. It’s perfect for pedaling casually to work while listening to the radio—the one thing I miss when I ride rather than drive. Naturally, a bike this civilized comes with a bell, a two-tone one at that, as well as a rack, fenders, and kickstand.
The brakes are an interesting departure from my recent rides: a Sturmey-Archer drum brake in front and a Shimano Nexus rollerbrake/ 7-speed internal gear hub. They are a softer than the disc brakes I’m used to, for sure, but better than many mid-range cantilever or caliper rim brakes. They match well with the general vibe of the bike.
I generally try out any of my Bicycle Times test bikes on my 12.5-mile (each way) commute at least once, even when they are such beasts as the Ahearne Cycle Truck, because it’s a good way to quickly reveal any shortcomings. (Our web editor Adam made fun of me on one such occasion.) But I’ve found myself riding the Viva to work more than once, because the enjoyment factor outweighs the, er, weight and relative slowness of this bike compared to my lighter, drop-handlebar, 700c-wheeled daily commuter. Of course, it’s also great for trips to the store and other close destinations.
As you can see from the mud splatters, I haven’t taken it easy on this bike. There was a city ride after our company retreat that involved some railroad ballast, some muddy rides in the local park with the dogs, and other “inappropriate bicycle” moments. But the components seem to be holding up fine—no rattling, no slipping out of line, no adjustments needed to shifting or brakes. At about $1,300, this is an expensive ride, no doubt, but it seems that aside from the “Designed in Denmark” premium, durability makes it worth it.
Keep an eye out in a future issue of Bicycle Times for our long-term review. Subscribe today!Tweet
By Stephen Haynes
I’ve been tooling around on the Fairdale Flyer for a few months now and I must say, I think I’m in love…
This bike takes me back to the surf and skate days of my southern California childhood, living a block away from the beach and having a beat-up cruiser to get me where I needed to go. Simple and utilitarian; No gears, no fenders, and handlebars big enough to give a friend a lift down the street.
The Flyer builds on the Spartan tradition of the beach cruiser with subtle yet effective touches that are appealing without betraying the bike’s usefulness.
My Flyer came to me in military green but it’s also offered in white. Both colors are accented with simple rainbow-esque lines on the down tube and seat tube. It’s just enough color to make it appear neither masculine or feminine, and visually gives the bike a lighthearted appearance;—like a smiley face emoticon at the end of a sentence.
The split top tube is both sexy and useful as it can hold a U-lock or anything else you might be able to fit in the slot (but mostly it just looks great). The same exact tubing is flipped upside down to create the Flyer’s step-through model as well.
Fairdale Archer bars have a good bit of sweep and 80mm of rise, but I wish they were just a bit wider. For cruising up and down the strand you probably wouldn’t bat an eye, but here in hilly Western Pennsylvania, a little more leverage would go a long way. Still it’s hardly a complaint as the bars are well suited to the bike and look awesome.
In addition to the Flyer, the good people at Fairdale sent one of their skateboard racks for me to check out. A novel and useful design reminiscent of bike/surfboard racks a few of my friends had growing up. No more tying your skate to your handlebars or riding one-handed to get to your favorite spot! Just throw it on and strap it in with the provided custom bungee.
For a good laugh and an intro to the skate rack, check out Fairdale’s founder Taj touting the benefits of the rack in this super funny video.
I’m looking forward to many more excursions on the Flyer in the time I have left with it. Check out my full review in an upcoming issue of Bicycle Times!
By Eric McKeegan
I’ve reviewed a whole slew of cargo bikes, but this is the first time I’ve ridden a “longjohn” style bike. Longjohns carry the cargo low between the wheels and use a linkage-steered front wheel. The Cabby is Gazelle’s version of the ultimate family bike.
The Cabby utilizes a steel frame, but rather than the more common wooden box, the cargo compartment is aluminum and fabric. Inside the cargo box you’ll find a removable bench seat with shoulder harnesses for two kids.
Unlike most bikes sold in the U.S., the Cabby is a turn-key commuter, with fenders, a full chaincase, a skirt guard, rear rack, front and rear lights and a sturdy centerstand. The internally-geared hub and drum brakes keep maintenance to a minimum, and the upright riding position keeps thing comfortable and casual
After spending quite a few months on a three-wheeled cargo bike, the Cabby looks and feels almost sporty, quite a feat for a bike that is almost nine feet long. As an experienced rider, It didn’t take me long to get used to steering a wheel that sits five feet in front of the handlebar. My wife took a little longer to get used to it, but the handling becomes second nature quickly.
I’ve been putting the Cabby through the full range of cargo bike uses over the last few months. If you are interested in the full review, check out the next issue of Bicycle Times, available soon on print and digital newsstands, or in your mailbox or tablet device should you be one of our cherished subscribers.Tweet
By Karl Rosengarth
Co-Motion Cycles has been hand-crafting an eclectic mix of bikes from their digs in Eugene, Oregon, since 1988. In addition to a wide range of tandem offerings, the company offers single bikes in the road, cyclocross, touring, and city categories. Their menu includes both stock geometry and full-custom offerings.
The Divide is a recent addition to the line, and like the other Co-Motion models, the bike is a purpose-driven machine that was created in response to customer demand. Ever since the company released the 26-inch Pangea adventure touring bike, folks had been asking about a 29er version. Read our long-term review of the Pangea model here.
The folks at Co-Motion eventually got tired of saying “not yet,” and built a few custom adventure-touring bikes with 29-inch wheels. The idea was to create a 29er suited for touring on the miles of unimproved roads that beckon for exploration, with the added versatility of 700c compatibility for efficient paved-road touring. The first few custom builds were very well received, and Co-Motion decided the configuration deserved its own model designation and stock sizes. The Divide was born.
The Divide is purpose-built for adventure touring, and not simply a road frame with extra tire clearance and additional braze-ons. The custom drawn, butted chromoly tubing is unique to Co-Motion. The oversized main frame tubes and massive chainstays are designed to handle the abuse of fully loaded touring over rough terrain.
Beefy custom forks are another other feature that sets Co-Motion’s touring bikes apart. The steerer tube and fork crown are turned down from a single piece of hollow bar stock, in house, on a CNC lathe. The result is a stronger and more precise part compared to traditional two-piece steerers. The stout head tube on the Divide is another clue that this bike means business. The dropouts are also Co-Motion’s own design, made in house on CNC equipment.
The base price of the Divide with standard touring kit is $3,925. However, my test bike included a $250 upgrade from BarCon shifters to Ultegra STI, and a $225 up-charge for two-tone paint ($4,300 sub-total). The Tubus Tara front rack and Cargo rear rack (both 29er compatible) represent $110 and $120 up-charges respectively (for a grand total of $4,530).
My main reason for requesting the Divide as my test bike was a 355-mile loaded tour on the unpaved Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Towpath trails, from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC. I shed the stock Continental Race King 29×2.2in tires in favor of a pair of Continental Country Plus 700x42c tires—skins more suited to the anticipated trail surface. The cherry on top was a set of Planet Bike Cascadia 29er fenders, and I was ready to roll.
After pedaling 70lbs. of combined bike/gear weight for six days, over 355 miles of mostly-unpaved trails, I came away impressed with the Divide. My experience left no doubt that this is one solidly-built machine. I’ve never ridden a frame that felt as stiff as the Divide. There was no perceptible flex while pedaling, nor bouncing over rough roads, even when fully loaded.
The C&O Towpath has some washed-out sections, and I soon discovered that I could plow into potholes with no fear. Sure beats having to constantly steer around them, especially when they come in rapid succession. And when I did need to make a quick course correction, the Divide responded nimbly enough, while still feeling comfortably stable. No shimmy and no shake. No wiggle, no waggle. Rock steady, mon.
If the 28.3 lbs. base weight of this bike (sans pedals) seems high, I’d argue that it makes perfect sense if you want a bike that can handle loaded touring over rough roads and not bat an eyelash. And the Avid BB-7 Road disc brakes did a fantastic job of controlling a full load, even on steep hills (did I mention there’s a C&O Towpath detour that forces you onto 6-miles of paved road that’s rather hilly?).
That’s all I have to say at this point. In the meantime be sure to subscribe to Bicycle Times to read my full review, scheduled for issue #21.
- Country of Origin: USA
- Price: $3,925 (base price) $4,530 (as tested)
- Weight: 28.3 lbs. (no pedals)
- Sizes Available: 52, 55 (tested) and 58cm (for full-custom sizing add $300).
- Website: www.co-motion.com
By Karl Rosengarth
I have a knack for doing things the hard way. Even my vacations tend to morph from much needed rest and relaxation into masters-level exercises in logistics. As I type this blog I’m in the midst of preparing for a week-long, self-supported bicycle tour along the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal Towpath trails with my riding pal Kevin.
The first thing on my vacation To Do List was getting a brand new Co-Motion Divide test bike (shown below) dialed in for the journey. Thanks to front and rear racks that Tubus was kind enough to provide, Brooks panniers that Bicycle Times previously reviewed, a swap of the stock 29er MTB tires for fresh Continental Country Plus skins and a set of Planet Bike Cascadia 29er fenders, my whip stands more than ready for the adventure. Look for my Co-Motion Divide "first impressions" blog in a few weeks, after I return from trip.
Next up was setting up Kevin, who owns two mountain bikes but nothing built for touring, with a suitable bike. My old Gunnar Crosshairs "cyclocross" bike to the rescue. The Crosshairs was long ago retired from the race circuit. Saddled with fenders and front/rear racks, the former thoroughbred now romps in greener pastures with the other grocery getters. The biggest challenge, and object of late-night wrenching in my dingy basement, was converting the Gunnar from drop to flat bars.
Kevin was just not comfortable on drops, and I was willing to make the switch, figuring that flat bare would better suit the bike’s current lifestyle anyway. It is amazing what some scrounging and cursing can accomplish. I unearthed some 9-speed Shimano XT brake/shift levers that I was able to get to play well with the Tiagra triple drivetrain (with less muss/fuss than I’d anticipated). The result is shown in the photo below.
Then there are the logistics of the trip itself. How far to pedal each day? Where to grab our meals? Where to camp? As I type, we’re about a week and a half from blastoff, and we’ve managed to sort out the aforementioned logistics. Not to mention rounding up the camping gear we’ll need.
Tell your story
However, there is one final task with which I’d like to ask your help, dear reader. In an effort to make this vacation even more like work, Kevin and I plan to shoot photos and video, with the goal of documenting the life and times along the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal Towpath trails. If you have a story about life along the trails, historical landmarks, the best scenic vistas, or would like to share your experiences pedaling on the trail, please use the web form at this link to tell us your story. Our goal is to create a unique documentary film and/or published articles about the trail corridor.
By Justin Steiner
Don’t let those cantilever brakes fool you; this ain’t no ‘cross racin’ bike. All City lumps the Space Horse into its “Road” bike category, and for good reason. The Space Horse’s geometry is more of a road/touring hybrid than a racy cross bike, with slightly longer chainstays and a lower bottom bracket for stability.
For many, the Space Horse’s versatility will be the main appeal. You can run it singlespeed or geared, with the option to mount up full coverage fenders as well as front and rear racks. Frame materials were chosen with light touring loads in mind; 20 lbs up front, 30 lbs. out back.
Thus far, my riding on the Space Horse has been strictly pedestrian compared to All City’s intended use. They say, “This bike was made to get you into and out of trouble, to be your companion on exploration missions and all day benders, and to get you and your stuff around as quickly as possible.” By that token, my mellow commute to and from work sounds just as routine and boring as it has become.
I know a lot of folks are curious about what sets the Space Horse apart from similar bikes like Surly’s Cross Check. In a few words; not a whole lot. That said, the Space Horse does include a few nice details. The internal cable routing for the rear brake is nice and clean, while the lugged fork crown and dropouts offers a nice touch of class.
Perhaps the biggest advantage is the electrodeposition (ED) treatment, which seals this 4130 chromoly steel frame inside and out prior to it being painted. For those riding in wet and potentially corrosive conditions, this rust proofing is a significant advantage. Though, riders in those conditions would also appreciate a disc brake version of the Space Horse. I’d be over the moon about this bike if it was so equipped. As is, it’s a nice riding, reliable, attractive bike that makes me wish it was disc-ready.
My test bike is the 2013 build spec, with the exception of the rims, which will be Alex DA16 instead of the DA20 pictured. The Tiagra group works wonderfully, while the Tektro brakes are adequate in dry conditions. For the $1,450 asking price, there’s a lot of utility in this package.
Read the full review
Look for the complete Space Horse review in issue #20 of Bicycle Times. Subscribe by October 15th to have that issue delivered to your mailbox.Tweet
By Adam Newman
Before joining Bicycle Times I worked for a spell in a bike shop that sold Cannondales. Among all the carbon road bikes and tricked out mountain bikes, there was always one or two of these odd little city bikes floating around the shop and the staff loved them, taking turns riding wheelies through the shop when no customers were around (don’t tell the boss).
The Hooligan is like men’s nipples, or that extra fork they give you at fancy restaurants—I have no idea why it’s there, it just is. But regardless of the "why" is the "what", and you’ll certainly be getting that question quite a lot when riding the Hooligan.
"What is that?"
"What’s it for?"
"Is that some sort of prototype?"
"Does it fold?"
The answer is usually: "It’s a bike," and a rather fun one at that. The 20-inch wheels and three-speed drivetrain make zipping around crowded city streets a breeze. The steering is quick and responsive, perfect for dogding potholes or puddles. Available in several versions over the years, the frame can also accomdate several other builds with its disc brakes and eccentric bottom bracket.
As you can see from the photo, the World’s Longest Seatpost does an acceptable job at accomodating my 6-foot-2 frame, but I’m really at the limit of who can ride this bike. Available in only one size, it’s flexible enough to also fit my 5-foot-3 girlfriend quite well. At $1,100 it isn’t cheap, but with quality parts and the Delta-V frame, this is no toy.
Pretty cool, huh? Keep an eye out for my full-length review in a future issue of Bicycle Times. Subscribe today and you’ll be sure not to miss it.
By Justin Steiner
Dreaming about a new bike now that spring is here? You aren’t alone. Buying a bicycle is extremely exciting, but can also be a little nerve-racking. With so many bicycles of varying designs and price points, how do you decide which bike best fits your needs? Bicycle Times is here to help you feel more confident about making a purchase. Think of this as a road map to the process of buying a bike.
With each issue of Bicycle Times, we review three or four interesting bikes to keep our experienced readers abreast of the performance and aptitude of the latest technology and trends. This article, however, is geared toward riders who are newer to our lovely sport, or re-entering the scene after a hiatus. If you know someone who’s hoping to buy a bike in the near future, pass this article along to help him or her make a more informed decision.
Buying a new bicycle is just like any other project—you first need to define your needs and the desired outcome. Start by realistically assessing your goals and ambitions for the next few seasons of riding, since this new bike will hopefully be with you for quite a while. Here is a list of questions to keep in mind; writing down the answers may help solidify your thoughts (again, be realistic):
- How often, and for what duration, am I riding now, and what do I have in mind for the future?
- What will be the main function of this bike?
- Transportation and utility, fitness and recreation, looking good, racing?
- What do I prioritize in this new bike?
- Style, cargo capacity, all-weather capability, light weight, durability, or the ability to fold for storage or travel.
- Where do I enjoy riding the most, and what do I enjoy about these locales?
- Do I care about country of origin (where it’s made)?
With needs defined, it’s time to talk budget. In the bicycle world, as with most anything, you get what you pay for. Spending more will buy better performance—less weight, higher precision components, and increased durability—but not everyone really needs top-shelf stuff. Keep in mind that a new bike will set you back at least $300 regardless of its intended use. If you’d like to buy a bike made in the good ol’ U.S. of A., it will add to the cost as well, possibly by as much as an extra zero on the price tag.
So, what’s your budget? How much cash do you have to play with? Whatever number you come up with, subtract $200–$400 (even budget shoppers should set aside at least $150) to arrive at your target price point. Why? Because you now have a cushion to purchase clothing, comfort, and safety items that will enhance your riding experience. It can be argued that these clothing and comfort items are every bit as important as the bicycle itself. (More on this later.)
At the bike shop
OK, now you have a better idea of what your needs are, and you know how much money you’re comfortable spending. Time to start shopping. Make a list of all the bike shops in your area, and note the brands each store stocks, the store hours, and locations. Then devise a plan to visit all of them. Bonus points if you can shop on a weekday, as salespeople will likely have a great deal more time to spend with you. Sure, it’d be nice if the dealer you end up choosing is close to your home, but don’t place too much value on proximity. Finding a shop where you can form a trusting relationship, and maybe even a friendship, with the staff is far more important.
As you are shopping, pay attention to the vibe and feel of each store you visit. How do the employees treat you? Did someone offer you assistance, or did you have to seek help? When you’ve connected with a salesperson, relay your answers to the assessment questions. Armed with that information and your budget constraints, the salesperson will be able to recommend the bike, or bikes, that best fit your needs and budget. Be open-minded about the style of bike the salesperson might be suggesting—don’t let your preconceived notions get in the way of good advice. Do ask the salesperson to explain why he/she has recommended particular bikes. Be sure to take notes on manufacturer names, models, and pricing.
Take time to inquire about the fitting process at each store, as this will be a large part of the deciding factor for where you should make your purchase. First, how do they determine which size is best for you? And second, how do they fine-tune the fit of the chosen size? Hope- fully they will include the store’s policy, and rates, for swapping stems, saddles, and other parts as needed to personalize your fit. The answers to these questions will begin to shine light on the great stores—the people who truly care about your fit and comfort. I cannot emphasize enough how important fit is to cycling. Comfort on your bicycle will keep you riding, while pain and discomfort will likely stop you dead in your tracks.
As you shop down through your list of stores, the experiences you have will vary drastically. Some of the encounters will make you want to go back and others most certainly will not. Scratch the shops off the list where you had less than satisfactory experiences and make note of the shops where you felt comfortable and received sound advice. Now it’s time to go back for a test ride. These folks will set you up with a fitted bike for a spin. Be sure to take notes about your impressions of the bike(s) you are able to ride—it’s hard to keep track of all the subtleties of different bikes if you don’t.
Also inquire about the store’s service policies. All reputable dealers will include a post-break-in tune-up with the purchase of the bike. Additionally, some shops offer extended service and/or insurance plans that could save you money in the long run, but make sure you clearly understand the terms. Many stores will even offer a discount on gear purchased with the bike.
Thank the salesperson and explain that you’re doing some comparative shopping and will be making a decision soon. From here on the decision should be fairly easy. Most likely, one of the bikes you ride will feel markedly better than the others. Congratulations! You just found your new bike.
Shop where you can form a trusting relationship, and maybe even a friendship, with the staff is far more important.
Why haven’t I even mentioned the importance of parts and specifications? I intentionally left out these details because, in my opinion, they are the least important aspect of buying a new bike. Since you’re looking at bikes made for a particular riding style and within a small price window, all of the models will offer similar parts packages. Sure, one bike will have widget X instead of widget Y, where the other has widget W instead of widget Y, but who cares? Of course, there are certain spec characteristics worth considering such as internal vs. external gearing, belt or chain drive, and handlebar type.
The salesperson you’re working with should be able to shed light on the advantages and disadvantages of each style of bike and why it might be well-suited or not to your specific needs. But the specifics of each component are not worth worrying about. The cycling marketplace is highly competitive and the overall package at any price point will be comparable. Staring cross-eyed at spec sheets will take your focus away from the overall fit and feel of the bicycle and which store has earned your money, both of which are far more important.
What about the extra $200–$400 you’ve stashed away? Now it’s time to invest in your comfort and safety. Pony up for a new helmet if you’ve had that old one for five years or lon- ger; helmet materials break down over time, rendering older helmets less effective. If you don’t have some form of protective eyewear, buy some stylin’ shades. Pick up some nice gloves to protect your hands for longer rides. If you will be riding in cold and/or wet weather, prepare yourself accordingly. Depending on your needs, a few nice pairs of cycling shorts may be in order, too. The guys and gals at the shop will be able to help you select clothing to fit your needs. (From my experience, you can’t go wrong with wool.)
You will also need a way to carry water, spare tubes, tire levers, a pump, multi tool, and patch kit. If you don’t know how to change a flat tire, ask a knowledgeable friend to show you how, offer to pay the shop to teach you, or find a local how-to class—community bike shops are a fabulous resource for knowledge. There are few things that kill the buzz of a nice ride quicker than having to call someone to pick you up, or worse yet, a 10-mile walk home, and a flat tire certainly won’t get you off the hook for being late to work.
So there you have it—bike buying made simple. Of course there are situations I simply can’t cover within the scope of this article. What I hope you take away is the general process and approach to purchasing a new bicycle. Trust yourself and your judgment; if things don’t make sense, ask questions—be analytical. Don’t put too much pressure on yourself; this might not be the last bicycle you ever buy, but rather the first step on the never-ending ladder toward cycling enlightenment.
Key things to remember
- Be honest about what you intend to do with your new bike.
- Set a budget and make sure it includes $200-$400 for accessories.
- Visit as many bike shops as you can and don’t be afraid to ask a lot of questions.
- Spend your money at the bike shop that you feel has earned your business.
By Matt Kasprzyk
Singular claims that the classically inspired Peregrine is its most versatile frame. The bike can be your adventure tourer, your commuter, or even your fat-tire monster ‘cross. It’s built from Reynolds and proprietary butted 4130 chromoly lugged steel. Although the paint and construction may take you back a few decades, Singular makes use of some relatively modern amenities like 29-inch wheels and disc brakes.
My ride to work can cross multiple surfaces, which has made the hunt for a perfect commuting bike difficult. I’ve been after a bike that can handle miles of road and urban streets, as well as dirt—a bike that can weather the abuse of rough gravel and provide some comfort.
Enter Marty of The Prairie Peddler, the only North American distributor of U.K.- made Singular bikes. He built his own Peregrine to tackle miles of unmaintained gravel roads in the Midwest. So, imagine how happy I was when he offered to loan me his personal bike for review.
The frame’s hub spacing is 135mm in the rear, 100mm in the front, same most mountain bikes. Tire clearance is similarly burly—the stays and fork will take a 29×2.0 tire. My loaner had Kenda Karma 29×2.0 tires installed. The frame didn’t leave much clearance for any- thing more aggressive, but Marty says you can get up to 700x45s with fenders if you wanted to go smaller.
The larger diameter tires made a huge difference on the rough when com- pared to the 37mm ones I have been using; I went from trying to pick smooth lines through rough gravel to not needing to pick lines at all. Using mountain bike tires with lower rolling resistance, riding on pavement was still bearable, albeit a little slow.
Obviously, disc brakes are pretty rad, but what I really appreciate is the fact that the Peregrine doesn’t have any canti brake bosses ruining its clean lines. To complete the frame, the braze-ons for racks and fenders don’t interfere with the disc caliper mounts, and there are three water bottle mounts and open-style guides for full-length cable housing.
The 59cm frame is the largest offered and has a 590mm top tube, which I thought was going to be a little short for my height. But with wider flared off-road drop bars, it made riding in those drops a comfortable reach. The 70mm of bottom bracket drop might sound like a bit on the low side until you factor in the taller knobby tires, which raise the bottom bracket height.
Same with the chainstays: 445mm may sound fairly long for a road bike, but that’s pretty average for a 29” mountain bike in order to fit decently aggressive tires. However, when compared to a 29er mountain bike, the wheelbase is short, so expect a nimble ride off-road.
Given the frame’s geometry, the handling offered no surprises. Unloaded, the front end will feel predictably light on pavement and wandered slightly because of the rake of the fork. It took about a half a ride off-road to get used to. The issue for me was getting comfortable in the drop bars on dirt rather than any nuances with handling. All things considered, the geometry is pretty standard—if you can call mountain bike wheels with drop bars standard.
The only drawback for me was toe overlap. Buyers with bigger feet will have to deal with it. I never noticed it on pavement, but I had to be conscious of it when turning sharply off-road. Given the larger tires, my feet, and the frame’s geometry, there isn’t really a way around it. Shorter cranks and smaller tires might have solved it, but that also diminishes the bike’s versatility.
There are no color changes planned for 2012, and that’s fine by me. The classic paint and lugs are a nice compliment to some of the varied builds the Peregrine can take. The second- generation frames will have hourglass-shaped chainstays to allow clearance for road cranks with a narrower Q-factor and bigger chainrings. The eccentric bottom bracket allows for a singlespeed set-up, plus there is a derailleur hanger for geared options.
For $725, North American customers will get a frame with a sterling silver headbadge, matching fork, and Singular licensed Phil Wood EBB. Singular has a much broader presence in Europe with several retailers offering complete builds.
If you’re into the retro steel aesthetic and need something more comfortable to crush miles of gravel, or just want a burly commuter that can handle some singletrack, this could be a wise choice. Singular offers a five-year warranty.
- Age: 32
- Height: 6’2”
- Weight: 185lbs.
- Inseam: 34 inches
- Country of origin: Taiwan
- Price: $725 (frame and fork)
- Weight: 25.4lbs.
- Sizes: 50, 53, 56, 59cm (tested)
I plan to log many more miles aboard the Valence Alloy 1 this spring. Look for a complete review in an upcoming issue of Bicycle Times.
By Josh Patterson
Norco’s Valence line of road bikes was designed to meet the needs of the growing number of road riders who enjoy long rides such as gran fondos and charity rides. Many of these riders are looking for a performance-oriented bicycle, but are not willing to sacrifice comfort to eek out a few more watts. If you count yourself amoung this group then keep reading. The Valence is available in carbon and more affordable aluminum models. I’m currently testing the highest-end aluminum model, the Vallence Alloy 1.
This $1,299 road bike packs a lot of bang for the buck, including a Shimano 105 drivetrain with an FSA crankset and a 105-level wheelset. I’ve logged approximately 300 miles on my test bike and have very little to complain about. The fit is good; handling is stable; and, as one would expect from a bike designed for long days in the saddle, the ride is quite comfortable.
The Valence seatstays are flattened and bow inwards to improve vertical compliance. The Tektro long reach brake calipers allow will accommodate up to 28c tires with fenders.
- Age: 30
- Height: 5’7”
- Weight: 145lbs.
- Inseam: 30”
- Price: $1,299
- Weight: 20.98lbs
- Sizes Available: 48, 51 (tested), 54, 57, 60
- Country of Origin: Taiwan
By Justin Steiner
The Gotham sits atop Novara’s lineup of bicycles designed for utilitarian urban cycling. For those not familiar, Novara is the house bicycle brand of outdoor equipment retailer and co-op REI. I’ve been pedaling the Gotham back and forth to work and around town for a couple of months now, and thought I’d weigh in with some initial impressions.
This city bike comes equipped with all the features you’d need to get from point A to point B, including full coverage fenders, a generator powered headlight and battery powered tail light, as well as a nice burly rear rack to haul your goods. The cable-actuated disc brakes are a welcome addition, both for their wet weather performance and the minimal maintenance needed to keep them stopping smooth.
Novara has spec’d some interesting drivetrain parts on this bike. NuVinci’s N360 hub is a continuously variable planetary hub offering infinite gear ratio adjustability within its 360% ratio range. Essentially, the hub offers a wide range of gear ratios without the concrete ratio steps of a traditional drivetrain, just twist the shifter to increase resistance, twist back for an easier ratio. Though this sounds almost too good to be true, I’ve enjoyed my time aboard the N360 and have found it to work flawlessly. Perhaps one of the best attributes of the N360 is the complete lack of maintenance requird for the life of the hub.
Novara continued the Gotham’s minimal maintenance theme by outfitting a Gates Carbon Drive Belt instead of a chain. These belts require no lubrication throughout their lifespan, and are said to outlast a traditional chain by a significant margin. The only tricky aspect of the Gates system is ensuring proper belt tension. Various folks around the office have had issues with broken or slipping belts, but mostly on more aggressive singlespeed setups, both on and off road. However, I’ve ridden a couple of city/commuting bikes equipped with a Gates Carbon Drive belt with satisfactory results and zero issues. In many ways, this seems like the perfect application for a belt.
All of these design and spec decisions yield a bike that’s extremely easy to hop on and ride to work, or to simply run an errand with the addition of some sort of bag or basket system to haul your goods. The riding position is upright and comfortable with a nice supportive saddle that’s comfortable with or without cycling shorts.
Underway, the Gotham rides with a quietness and fluidity that can only be achieved on a belt drive bike with a NuVinci hub as far as I’ve experienced. Granted, a portion of this smoothness is provided by the Vittoria Randonneur 35mm-wide tires, but the refined feeling provided by the super smooth belt system and the buttery shifting of the N360 add a certain level of refinement.
Handling-wise, the Gotham is spot on for its intended use with a confident stability that’s great for a mindless ride home from work, without handling slow and dull. Speaking of slow, it’s worth mentioning this bike isn’t a rocket ship. Simply put, there’s no getting around this bike’s 38+ lbs weight. This slow and steady demeanor isn’t terribly noticeable around town, but will make itself known on longer or sportier rides.
I’ve enjoyed my time aboard the Gotham. Thus far along in the review, it strikes me as a nice bike for a decent price. The real icing on this cake is the durability and relatively maintenance-free components for those in wet and snowy climates.
Look for the full review in Issue #17 of Bicycle Times. Subscribe now to have that issue delivered to your door.
By Eric McKeegan
The bike industry is still looking for the correct term for bikes like the Secteur. It isn’t a race bike, nor is it a touring bike. Specialized calls it “endurance road". I’ve seen "comfort road" and "plush road" too. Whatever, all these bikes are probably better choices for the average rider than the more aggressive race models. So how about these just be road bikes, and we’ll call the race bikes what they are: race bikes.
Anyway, enough about that, what makes the Secteur not a race bike? Let’s compare it to the Allez, Specialized’s race inspired road bike at similar price points to the Secteur. I’m testing a size 56. To start, both bikes share a top tube length of 565mm and a 73.25º seat angle, so fit is going to be pretty similar. The Sectuer has a 20mm taller headtube to get the bars up higher, a slacker head angle, longer chainstays, a lower bottom bracket and a longer front center for more stability. Those long chainstays combined with elastomer inserts in the fork and chainstays should deliver on the promise of less road vibration transmitted to the rider.
It’s been a wet spring, so I mounted up a set of full coverage SKS fenders, which fit fine with the stock 25mm tires.
Look here, rack mounts! Specialized spec’d an almost complete 105 group, minus the hubs, although I won’t complain about using DT Swiss hubs instead. Glad to see the 105 compact crank, Shimano still makes the best shifting cranks in the business.
My road rides often include roads that are not pavement. They look like this:
Yes, I cleaned this climb:
I’m enjoying the light and stiff feel of this bike, and I grudgingly admit the elastomer inserts are doing something to take the edge of rough roads. This is the first bike I’ve tested that makes me want to find some fast group rides to grace with my presence rather that continue with my typical solo missions.
I’ll be riding the Secteur into the early summer, might even try my hand at some road racing, even if this isn’t a “race” bike, is sure feels fast to me.
By Shannon Mominee
Most people associate Joe Breeze with mountain biking. He is considered one of the founding fathers of the sport along with Gary Fisher, Charlie Kelly, Tom Ritchey, and Charlie Cunningham, to name a few, and Breeze is credited with building the first purpose-built mountain bike in the early 80’s. He’s also a Mountain Bike Hall of Fame inductee of 1988, and remains active in the industry today.
So what’s up with the Breezer road bike, you may be asking? Before mountain bikes, Joe raced road bikes successfully and the Venturi is a nod to his past and 35 years of inspiration. Most riders are not settled into one discipline and own more than one type of bike. Breezer continues to build mountain bikes, and also offers commuter/transportation bikes too.
The Venturi is the only Breezer road bike offering and is available as a frameset or complete build. Remaining true to innovation, the Venturi features a heat-treated chromoly steel frame built around racing geometry, integrated head tube, asymmetrical chainstays, BB86 press-fit bottom bracket, and 40mm offset Breezer carbon fiber fork.
The geometry and sizing of the frame is unique, if not a little strange. It’s built low and long. I typically ride frames with a 570-580mm long top tube, with the seat tube corresponding close to that number for a given size. The Venturi size large does have a 570mm top tube, but the seat tube is a short 540mm. The next size up has a 570mm seat tube but a top tube of 585mm, which would have been too long for me. Combined with the 74-degree head tube, 73.5-degree seat tube, and short 130mm head tube, I’m riding in an aggressive position.
Short chainstays, short wheelbase, steep angels make for a quick handling bike. The Venturi does ride nice and supple, without being twitchy or scary on the downhills. It’s stiff where it needs to be, forgiving in other areas, and feels powerful and fast on the climbs. I actually look forward to standing and going up hills on it.
The frame is outfitted with a full Ultegra 10-speed parts package and Ultegra tubeless wheels. I’ll have a blog posting soon on the tubeless wheels so be on the lookout. I’m not crazy about all the white parts, paint, and bar tape, but that’s me, it may be attractive to you.
Look for a full review soon in Bicycle Times Magazine and if you like the mag, don’t forget to subscribe. Print and multiple digital forms are available.
by Karl Rosengarth, photos by Adam Newman and Karl Rosengarth
Different riders have different riding styles. Each person gravitates toward certain types of bikes that meld with their style. When it came time to outfit myself with a test bike, the Jamis Bosanova rocketed to the top of my charts. I was attracted to the Bossanova’s versatile, utilitarian nature. It’s short list of attractive features: full-coverage fenders, disc brakes, drop bars, triple crank, steel chassis, practical tires, and rack eyelets.
Steel is versatile and practical. I like steel. The Bosanova’s chasis is made from Reynolds 520 double-butted chromoly main tubes and chromoly stays. The Bosanova rolled down the road with a resilient and lively feeling. When pulling hard on the bars, or mashing the big ring, frame flex was well within acceptable limits.
The frame/fork both have eyelets for racks, a nod to the bike’s versatility. Speaking of the fork, it’s a carbon fiber unicrown affair with steel steerer and forged dropouts. The fork looks stout, but did not harsh out the ride. Actually, it seems to kill some of the buzz from rough roads.
For the geometry Jamis chose a middle-ground between quick/racy and stable/touring. The all-arounder geometry resulted in a bike with comfortable and intuitive nature. The handling felt stable and predictable, without feeling at all sluggish. Pointed downhill, the Bosanova held its line and carved high-speed sweepers without wavering. When called upon to dodge potholes or dice in traffic, the Bosanova was quick enough to comply without complaint. The term "well-behaved" comes to mind.
Sporting painted-to-match metal fenders and disc brakes, the Bosanova is wet-weather capable. On minor complaint is that there’s some rattling coming from the rear fender, which I need to see if I can isolate and fix. My first rain ride sold me on the concept of disc brakes on road bikes. Wet braking power and modulation of the Avid BB-5 cable actuated discs was confidence-inspiring. Gotta love one-finger braking in the rain.
Rolling on Vittoria Randonneur Cross 700x28c with Double Shield puncture protection, this rig has been more than up to the task of tackling the mean streets and dirt roads. The full-coverage fenders shielded the stock tires perfectly, but it appears from eyeballing the fender-to-tire clearance that you’d run out of room pretty quickly if you tried to fit much wider tires.
I like having a bike with a triple-crank in my stable, so the Tiagra triple gets my thumbs up. I should point out that Jamis speced an FSA Vero triple crankset (with FSA PowerDrive bottom bracket), so the drivetrain is not full Shimano.
Look for my full review of the Bosanova in Bicycle Times issue #17 and subscribe today to make sure you never miss an issue.
- Country of Origin: China
- Price: $1,275
- Weight: 27.1 lbs.
- Sizes Available: 48, 51, 54, 56 (tested), 58, 61cm.
By Trina Haynes
The Marin Bridgeway falls well within the Toaster Bike classification (as coined by our fearless leader Maurice Tierney). A toaster bike is a bike that is as simple to use as a toaste: push the pedals and off you go. Mmm, I love toast. And Cylons for that matter. Mmm, Cylon toast.
My 14-mile round trip commute takes me over a few steep (and a few not-so-steep) hills. A two-foot shoulder off the tarmac with occasional stretches of gravel, dirt and glass is all that separates me from cars passing at about 45mph. The occasional live (and sometimes not-so-alive) animal keeps things interesting. My first ride on the Bridgeway was on this terrain. I was bit skeptical of the slim handlebars and whether or not I’d get enough leverage off of them to power up the two steeper hills along the ride. Overcoming the smaller handlebars was easier than I thought and beneficial when tucking in for my attempt at aerodynamic speed on the descent. I’m a racer in my head.
The Shimano EZ-Fire shifter is simple and, well, easy to use. Thumb and fore finger shifting makes getting up the two mega hills much less daunting.
The Bridgeway’s 6061 aluminum frame held up to my semi-aggressive style of riding: hopping over various objects as well as a few unexpected gravel and dirt spinouts on the night ride home.
For some reason my size 17 tester frame is a wee bit too small for me, and the 19 would likely be too big (I have the same problem with shoes when they don’t make half size. I have to have an 8.5). So, I swapped out the stem for a slightly longer one, which gave me my preferred 30 degree back angle and a less upright riding position. As a cyclist with back and hip problems, this angle for riding works best for me.
The Marin Bridgeway and I will get to know each other more over the next few months and I’m sure I’ll start to make a few more tweaks, as we all do to make our bikes more “ours”. Such as, the need for at least one bell. My Marin Bridgeway needs a voice. My bell is that voice! Fellow cyclists, pedestrians and groundhogs the world over must hear that voice! Bridgeway Coming through!!!!